The Language Barrier

Too many conversations here with westerners all revolve around linguistic issues. We discuss different accents and local expressions in English. The Brits bitch at how the Americans have ruined the language. We all question whether they really speak English in New Zealand. The Canadians only speak up if you mention French. Mostly, however, we mention the difficulties of not-quite "getting" Mandarin.

Chinese is a tonal language. Many sounds you sing out, and meaning is derived from how you move up and down in pitch. In Mandarin there are four different tones -- and most English speakers cannot even come close to hearing the difference between them. The word for Mother and Horse both sound like "mae," however, have a tonal difference. The number four is to be avoided because it sounds like the word for death, and people here do not take any reference to death lightly.

One harrowing experience as an expatriot here is getting your hair cut. Think about it: The stylist/ barber does not speak your language. This person is holding a very sharp vibrating implement to your head. How do you say "shorter"? Or, "I didn't ask to look like Jon Bon Jovi, so cut it with the bad dye job and get a grip, bub!"?

My first few haircuts here went surprisingly well. I went to this old-school barber shop near my apartment, sat down without a word, the guy cut my hair -- without a word -- and did a great job. It was uncomfortable at first, but I began to trust him with my head. The pictures here, however, are from a time that I braved a chic salon in Taipei. The stylist's assistant (pictured here) was very cute. The tea and refreshments they served were good. The haircut? Let's just say I'm going back to the silent visits to the local barber in Hsi Chih.

After the haircut, I returned to the 2-28 Peace Park. Nice park, but the 2-28 holiday commemorates a massacre where 10,000 Taiwanese protesters were killed in downtown Taipei by the city's Chiang-Kaisheck-appointed ROC mayor. Down the street is the majestic Chiang Kaisheck memorial

The park contains a museum of Taiwanese (not Chinese) culture and a Confucious shrine, a small lake full of puckering orange and yellow carp, several brightly colored pagodas and possible the only trees inside Taipei. It is beautiful. Go figure.

-August 12, 2002

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